2005-05-04 15:49
digitaldiscipline
According to the appraisal we had done on the house this past weekend, that's how much the work we've put into it has paid off, in percent. It's about a three hundred percent ROI on the capital that's gone into the house thus far (insulation, A/C, paint, sewer line, driveway pavers, lighting fixtures, etc).
Realistically, this means two things. The refinancing I'm looking at to consolidate outstanding debts will be at a lower APR (by up to .7%), and there's more $$ available to pay off more of that stuff.
As far as I can tell, the biggest (and perhaps only) downside to moving from my current mortgage to the refinanced arrangement is that it doesn't include an escrow account for property tax and home insurance automatically with the monthly payment.
Financial types, am I missing something that could bite me in the ass come tax time? Is this still considered to be a mortgage, so that the interest paid is deductible?
But, yeah. That was nice to hear, regardless.
Realistically, this means two things. The refinancing I'm looking at to consolidate outstanding debts will be at a lower APR (by up to .7%), and there's more $$ available to pay off more of that stuff.
As far as I can tell, the biggest (and perhaps only) downside to moving from my current mortgage to the refinanced arrangement is that it doesn't include an escrow account for property tax and home insurance automatically with the monthly payment.
Financial types, am I missing something that could bite me in the ass come tax time? Is this still considered to be a mortgage, so that the interest paid is deductible?
But, yeah. That was nice to hear, regardless.
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(Angel can verify all this, 'cuz I'm not totally sure.)
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It also is a better financial move to not escrow. The mortgage company averages out the payments over a year and banks the money in an escrow account until the bills come due. They get to make interest on your money that way. If you are responsible enough and have the cash-flow enough to handle the payments yourself, it's better to do so.
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Down the road slightly, I/we may look at a HELOC to fund home improvements (windows for sure, addition for maybe) if need be.
Depending on how the monthly payment structure looks, I'm leaning towards a 12 or 15 year term on the big one, because that's commensurate with the current outlay for the expenses it's assuming - I may go with 20 just to have more cash on hand month-to-month, but that depends on how much the payment would differ.
In any case, it wouldn't assume any day-to-day expenses; everything that would be getting rolled into it one time, and leave the credit cards and whatnot balance-free, for normal (and responsible) use, so the hypothetical $2000 dinner wouldn't happen. . .
. . . Unless, of course, we get C12 and everyone hands me cash at the CorpGoth Dinner, and I put it on plastic. ;-)
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Oh, and ignore the billions of things you get in the mail from everyone wanting to set you up on two week payment schedules (you can do that on your own without their help), refinance you for dirt cheap payments (very likely interest-only loans, if even that much), and etc. You probably already do, but I mention it just in case. I'm getting a couple a day at this point, and I'm starting to just shred them and send them back in their own business reply envelopes. Asshats.
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There is a prepayment penalty, but it's relatively marginal, and based on the outstanding value of the loan; the no-penalty option charges a .5% APR surcharge (which, given my expectations for the loan, would end up costing me more than the prepay fee).
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I too would recommend making the term longer if there's no prepayment penality. It sounds like there is a penality, so go for 15-20, but not less. Cash flow is king.
My Idaho houses are both on 15 year loans (one's paid off in 3.5 years!!!), but my CA house is a 30 year, just because I didn't want to be tied to more than 1500/month!
When I did my windows in 2003, I got 10 installed for 4854.00. Good luck on all!!!