digitaldiscipline: (f*ck [by fireba11])
In my fervor, I seem to have misplaced, if not thrown away outright, the remote sensor reciever for the home theater rig I use for computer audio. . . which means that, while it's still doing its job (namely, making noise of varying frequency and amplitude), it's not able to be fucked with (balance, equalization, etc).

I am currently lacking in any ability to find part RE0001 ("Remote sensor reciever"), by JBL, anywhere. The one guy who carried the power cord on Ebay doesn't have any. Harman audio, the link off of JBL's site, lists it as "Not Available."

Anyone got any ideas?

*headdesk*
◾ Tags:
Date/Time: 2007-01-16 18:08 (UTC)Posted by: [identity profile] lisamantchev.livejournal.com
Don't look at me... between the two-year-old and her daddy, I'd need GPS tracking devices to find the remotes, portable phones and Barbie shoes. Oh, and cell phones, car keys, wallets...
Date/Time: 2007-01-16 18:24 (UTC)Posted by: [identity profile] arcsine.livejournal.com
It's very likely that the IR receiver uses a standard jack, I think it's mini-phono. If that's the case, a Xantech DinkyLink (http://www.xantech.com/products/p_folder/p_480.htm) with the mini-phono plug will work fine.
Date/Time: 2007-01-16 18:28 (UTC)Posted by: [identity profile] tylorael.livejournal.com
E-mail me all the info you have on it. I will send that to my dad, and see if any of the dealers he works with have it or something that would work.
Date/Time: 2007-01-16 18:42 (UTC)Posted by: [identity profile] etcet.livejournal.com
Doesn't need an external power source? (Their documentation is a tad on the unclear side in this respect.)
Date/Time: 2007-01-16 18:53 (UTC)Posted by: [identity profile] arcsine.livejournal.com
Yup, it needs a standard 12v/300mA wallwart.
Date/Time: 2007-01-16 19:07 (UTC)Posted by: [identity profile] etcet.livejournal.com
Noted.

I seem to have gotten a reply from JBL's parts folks (HarmanAudio.com), who are looking to see if they have any (they list it as "not available" but not "out of production," which is kind of confusing).

The factory piece would definitely be my first choice, due to a) guaranteed compatibility, b) one less cord (no power req'd), and c) price (h-a lists the part at $27, the dinkylink looks to be about $70).
Date/Time: 2007-01-16 19:31 (UTC)Posted by: [identity profile] arcsine.livejournal.com
Yup, OEM is definitely going to be best.
Date/Time: 2007-01-17 06:01 (UTC)Posted by: [identity profile] mighty-man.livejournal.com
Do you have the original model number of the HT rig?
Date/Time: 2007-01-17 13:06 (UTC)Posted by: [identity profile] etcet.livejournal.com
ESC333